Clervaux and the Ardennes: the north that does you good

At the very top of the country, the Luxembourg Ardennes play in a league of their own: deep-cut valleys, forests as far as the eye can see, villages clinging to the slopes. It's the part of Luxembourg people forget most often - which is precisely what makes it the best remedy when you're saturated with noise. And tucked into one of those valleys sits Clervaux, a little town well worth the journey.

The journey is part of the fun

The northern train line is one of the most beautiful in the country: it hugs the valleys, strings together viaducts and tunnels, and rolls through scenery that changes at every window. Since public transport is free, this panoramic ride costs you nothing but a little time. Put your headphones in, claim the window seat and consider the outing started the moment you leave the platform.

A white castle and images from around the world

At the centre of Clervaux stands a striking white castle, home among other things to a world-famous photography exhibition devoted to humanity in all its facets. It's a visit that stays with you, whatever your relationship with photography. Above the town, a Benedictine abbey watches over the valley from its wooded ridge, and the path up to it offers superb views over the rooftops.

Walk, breathe, come back down

Waymarked trails leave straight from the town and climb into the surrounding forests. No need to aim for a summit: the point is the atmosphere, that thick calm you only find in the north, barely disturbed by wind in the firs. A half-day loop is enough to come back down with your head emptied - in the best sense of the word.

Clervaux doesn't try to entertain you: it settles you. Save this trip for a day when everything is moving too fast. Once you're there, you'll understand why some people turn it into a ritual.