Exploring the Grund for the first time: a beginner's guide

The Grund is the neighbourhood down below the ramparts, along the water, that makes you feel like you've switched cities in just a few minutes. Heading down there means swapping the concrete of the plateau for alleys, bridges and a quiet river.

How to get down without wearing yourself out

Good news: a public lift connects the upper town to the Grund and spares you the stairs. Otherwise, the paths along the old fortifications are a walk worth taking in themselves. Wear decent shoes - it goes up and down.

Once you're down there, just go with the flow. Follow the water, take in the old façades, spot the little bridges. No need for a detailed plan: the area is small and easy to cover on foot.

The best time to go

In the late afternoon, the light on the stone is gorgeous for your photos. Weekends have more buzz; weekdays are quieter if you just want to breathe. Either way, wandering around costs nothing.